I think I would go as far to say that North Cornwall is one of my favourite places in the UK - if not the world. When you come to Cornwall, you leave the rest of the civilised world behind.
Place names change from soft, chocolate box-sounding places (like Clovelly and Appledore) and become other-worldly, like something out of a J.R.R. Tolkien novel. Trebetherick, Zennor, Nanjizal.
There's a reason why the residents of Cornwall are constantly campaigning for independence from the rest of the UK. Because it's not like anywhere else.
In the summer, it's crowded. Hoards of British tourists gather on Cornwall's beaches to eat ice cream for six weeks in July and August. But once they have gone, Cornwall returns to its beautiful quiet rural state - the turbulent Atlantic, imposing craggy cliffs, empty beaches.
The best months to visit are June and September - when the waves are good, the weather is warm, but you can avoid the queues.
VISIT
CYCLE THE CAMEL TRAIL
It’s a well-known route, but such a great thing to do if you’ve never been to Cornwall before. It’s a very easy traffic-free cycle path on an old railway line that traces the River Camel from its mouth at Padstow through Wadebridge all the way to Bodmin. I’d recommend parking in Wadebridge, hiring a bike from the start of the trail and cycling to Padstow with a stop at Rick Stein’s Fish and Chips (by far the best chippy in town).
WALK FROM DAYMER BAY TO ROCK
If you’re looking for a beach walk with great views, park up at Daymer Bay and walk along the beach to Rock. It takes about 45 minutes one way and the beach is also dog-friendly. If you haven’t visited Padstow yet, you can board the foot ferry over for a stroll around town and Rick Stein’s fish and chips (as mentioned above). You can also stop at The Mariners in Rock for a drink if you’re short on time. If it’s high tide, follow the coastal path through the dunes.
HEAD DOWN TO PORT ISAAC
Port Isaac is famous for home to the ITV drama Doc Martin, which is set in this very village. Heaving during the summer months, it’s best to visit off season when the cobbled streets are less crowded. You won’t need more than half a day here, but it’s worth a look in the shops and a pint overlooking the harbour at The Golden Lion. Just around the corner, you can go for a swim at Port Gaverne.
SURF AT CRANTOCK
Just around the corner from Newquay, Crantock is one of the best places to surf in the area. The waves are rarely crowded and it has a great peeling longboarder friendly wave near the mouth of the river. Sheltered when the wind is blowing a hooley elsewhere. Works best at mid to high tide. Even if you don’t surf, Crantock is gorgeous on a sunny day. Bring your National Trust sticker if you have one for the car park.
VISIT BEDRUTHAN STEPS
Bedruthan Steps is a famously gorgeous with dark craggy cliffs and a pristine beach, dotted with towerin sea stacks. Victorian legend says that at high tide, a giant would use these sea stacks as stepping stones to walk along the coastline.
You can access the beach at low tide, but it’s the views from the coastal path that are most stunning. It’s a half an hour walk to Mawgan Porth (make sure you take a look inside Roo’s Beach, my favourite shop in the area) or admire the views by heading the other direction towards the headland.
TRY A BEACH YOGA CLASS
The lovely Aimee from Synergy Yoga holds outdoor yoga classes early on a Saturday morning. Park up on the Esplanade at the south end of Fistral Beach and you’ll find everyone lying on their mats on the flat grassy bit overlooking the beach. Classes run during the summer months, depending on the weather. Find out more info on the Synergy Yoga Facebook Page.
EAT
Little Plates, Wadebridge
This modern tapas bar is one of my favourite places for dinner in the whole of Cornwall. The menu changes seasonally. Make sure you order the fish tacos.
It’s very reasonably priced – I usually spend around £15-20 per person (not including drinks). Thursdays is Mexican night complete with tacos and tequila. Booking ahead is a must.
Gilmores Golf, Newquay
If you want excellent Cali-Mexican style food with a side of mini golf, then this is the place to come. Founded by Cornish entrepreneur Elsie Pinninger, Gilmores is great for a quick coffee or a full blown meal, complete with Mexican cocktails and a fine burrito (or two).
The Jam Jar, Newquay
If you are into the chia seed/cacao healthy eating trend right now, then you need to head to The Jam Jar. It’s a cosy little bolt hole stacked with surf magazines, serving coffee, smoothies, gluten-free cakes and toasted bagels.
I had the Bounty Bliss smoothie – made with coconut milk, banana, agave syrup, and cacao, topped with an edible flower – plus an avocado, cream cheese and smoked salmon bagel. Delicious.
Strong AdolfOs, Wadebridge
Just off the A39, you'll spot a huge retro American CAFE sign suspended above a wooden Scandinavian looking building.
This is Strong Adolfos, a hipster-style cafe with delicious food (including plenty of vegetarian options, smoothies and plenty of gluten-free options.
We recommend trying their slow cooked dahl. It’s not cheap, but it is tasty. Poke your head around the deli and interiors shop next door before you leave.
St Tudy Inn, St Tudy
We first came here for Sunday lunch and my boyfriend said it was the best Sunday lunch he has ever had. Tucked away in the tiny village of St Tudy, chef Emily Scott set up this pub restaurant earlier this year with roaring success.
Think cosy modern country interior with Farrow & Ball painted walls and very polite staff. There are great choices for vegetarians – I particularly liked their aubergine and summer vegetable lasagna. Lunch is amazing value for money, while the evening meals are delicious but a little more pricey.
DRINK
Bedruthan Hotel Cocktail Bar, Mawgan Porth
The Bedruthan Hotel might be known primarily as a family hotel, but the cocktail bar really is something special. There is no menu – resident mixologist Ian will simply ask what flavours you like and concoct a drink from his homemade bitters and liqueurs. With amazing views over Mawgan Porth beach, it is well worth a visit.
The Ship Inn, Wadebridge
The Ship Inn is owned by the same people as Little Plates. It’s a great place for an evening drink if you want a traditional pub, filled with a nice mix of locals and tourists. The food is also very good, if you’re looking for a decent pub meal.
SHOP
Roos' Beach, Porth
This shop is can only be summed up in one word: fun. It's a surf shop but without any of your usual big brands in sight. Think pineapple bracelets, beeswax candles, colourful kaftans and pink suede boots.
MMW By Revolver, Newquay
MMW is one of those shops you will step into and immediately want to buy everything. From the Pendleton rugs to the glossy surf magazines and candles to the unusual array of women's clothing, it's a surf shop with a modern twist. Warning: this place is seriously dangerous for your bank balance.